Get Lost: How to Find the Real Porto on Foot (and on a Budget)
The Best Things in My Expat Life are Free.
Hello and thank you for being here! I’m Kimberly Anne—a U.S. expat who moved to Portugal solo in 2022, sight unseen and without a safety net. I started this Substack to document my own journey, but these days, I’m here to help you explore your own dreams of moving abroad. Thanks for joining me on the adventure! Want more of the backstory? Click here.
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Free Abounds
During my lifetime I’ve traveled to many places in the world, always on a budget. Plane tickets (before I learned to use frequent flyer miles) + accommodations are the highest priced items in travel life. Thus, I’ve gotten good with free or low cost excursions. Living in Portugal has been similar and I’m excited to bring you this newsletter highlighting all the free (and low cost) things you can do here in Porto and beyond. I’ve found that free fun is often more meaningful and creates deep seated memories.
Walking
The number one recommendation I have is walking. I do this no matter where I land, mostly because I am obsessed with architecture but also because it’s the perfect way to learn a city. When I think back on each country or city I’ve visited, the first memory is of exploring the city itself. From Shanghai to Prague; Berlin to Playa del Carmin and all the places in between.
In 1990 I went to Venice for the first time, reading in Lonely Planet that the best way to explore the city was to walk in any direction and get lost. So I did. After pausing in Piazza San Marco for two cappuccinos and one mineral water, for which I paid over $45 (IN 1990!), I decided, even at the ripe young age of twenty-four, that walking and purchasing bread and cheese to eat on the go, was a much better option.
In Porto one of my favorite activities, and the one I take every visitor on, is walking across the Dom Luís I Bridge. If you can manage to do this at sunset, even better. It’s easy enough to get to as well. Just take the D line metro to São Bento station and walk (south) up the hill. On the way you can stop to gawk at the gorgeous Sé Porto Church on your right which also boasts spectacular views of the city, if you know where to look.
If you don’t want to (or can’t) walk up the hill, take the D line metro one stop further and get off on the Gaia side at the Jardim do Morro stop and walk north across the bridge toward São Bento.
Regardless of which way you go, north to south or south to north, if you’re able you’ll want to walk up the hill on the Gaia side to the Monastery of Serra do Pilar where you will find the best view of the Douro River and Porto beyond. But it’s windy up there, so dress appropriately on non-heat-wave days.
You can also watch the sunset from here, on the bridge itself, or in the park (Jardim do Morro) while sitting on the grassy hill.
On the left side of the bridge, facing the Gaia side, I recommend walking down to the Ribeira. It’s a gorgeous walk and around every turn is a new breathtaking vista. You end up at the bottom of the bridge and head left, down the stairs and across the waterfront. In order to return, if you wish, you can walk across the bottom of the bridge and up a lot of stairs. Otherwise, you can jump on a tram or a funicular to go back up the hill.
I love walking around the Ribeira (river) on the Porto side to feast on the architecture and small, winding streets. While the cafés and restaurants are pricier along the water, the walk is free. There’s something both special and heartwarming about visiting this area as you imagine the way it used to be, bustling with fishermen and locals instead of tourists.
Other free sights of note are the São Bento Train Station, which is stunning. The architecture and inside tiled illustrations are a wonder to behold.
There are also numerous amazing beaches to explore on both the Porto and the Gaia side if you’re a beach person. The one in Foz do Douro (on the Porto side) is a particular favorite. There’s a long boardwalk and a cool lighthouse. Plus the entire area of Foz is something to be admired from a gorgeous park to stunning architecture and hidden delights if you meander through the winding streets.
On the Gaia side, my absolute favorite little fishing village, hugged between the Atlantic and the Douro is Afurada. If you’re looking for rows of tiled houses, you have to go! If you’re a fish eater, you can find freshly caught fish that’s grilled right in front of you for lunch. I’m madly in love with this little village and it’s still part of Porto on the Gaia side. If you arrive early you will catch the older women sitting in front of their houses in chairs, talking to one another. Older men gather at the café’s where they smoke and chat. There’s even a covered farmer’s market and an old (still used) wash-house. Something about this place, causes people to slow down, smile and breathe deeply as they wander through the colorful houses and along the Douro.
Weather permitting there’s an amazing beach walk between Matosinhos and Foz do Douro. You take the metro to Matosinhos and walk back down to Foz along the ocean.
If you take the Porto metro north to the last stop you’ll discover the magical, quant town of Vila do Conde which hugs both the Atlantic and a river.
And then there’s just getting lost in the city itself. Porto is small. I always compare Porto to San Francisco as it really does have a similar feel. I used to walk around SF for hours, wandering through and learning the different neighborhoods, each having a distinct feel. I do the same in Porto except San Francisco is 46.89 square miles, roughly 3x the size of Porto at 16 square miles.
Free Tours
One of my number one favorite things to do whenever I travel is to take tours. Many companies, such as Sandeman offer free ones, I’ll put a list of others in the resources below. I mostly use Sandeman and have had wonderful experiences. They also have some paid options for specialty tours (such as the Port wine tour) but I’ve only used their free ones. For all the free tours, you tip the tour guide at the end. I’ve taken these in Savannah Georgia, five times in Venice Italy, thrice in Berlin, in Barcelona and elsewhere. I’ve met friends on each one that I’m still in contact with today.
I’ve also used Meetup.com for historical architecture tours specifically in Porto but these are paid.
Another option (I haven’t used yet but will) are city-sponsored or non-profit tours like City Greeters. To find these you search “city greeters + the name of the city”. Here’s one in Hamburg, Germany for example. And another in Paris.
Free Tours by Foot offers downloadable routes in multiple cities for travelers to explore on their own.
I did use the Viator app once in Barcelona where I paid for a 1-on-1 tour and was able to pick my guide. I loved it, but it was a little pricey.
Some things I love about tours:
I get to meet people I’d never have met before. I ended up making such good friends with a wonderful man (Christopher Michaels) in Berlin that we spent the rest of the day together and I even got to interview him for my first podcast!
Also in Germany I met a wonderful Ukrainian woman and we spent the rest of the day together.
You learn the history of the city/country and that is invaluable.
Some tours, like Architectours by Manuel António Morais take you to places that tourists will never see.
You will learn something different from each tour guide, depending on their interest and speciality.
Tours make my heart soar. I truly can’t say enough about them.
Parks
I adore the parks of Porto but no matter where I visit I love visiting parks, cemeteries and other free, open spaces. Not just because they’re free but because they enable you to explore nature and take in some truly captivating sights, scents and sounds that transport you out of the city.
My favorite park in Porto is the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal. It’s terraced with a view of the Douro, replete with a castle turret and many peacocks. I love this park so much that I bring most visiting friends. There are views of the river from two sides and the landscaping is otherworldly. At the end of summer, the park hosts the amazing book fair, also free. I love this fair so much that I often visit at least three times.
The park near my apartment, São Roque is near and dear to my heart because of the labyrinth. It’s also beautifully landscaped, perched on a hill, with fountains, gardens and views.
And the largest park here in Porto is Park Cidade where you can find the weekly organic farmers market on Saturday mornings right behind the restaurant Soundwhich. But make sure you arrive before noon or there will be slim pickings! This 205 acre park, juts up to the Atlantic and offers hiking trails for dogs and humans alike.
I’ve spent a lot of time in Paris as my sister lived there for twenty years. My favorite things to do were walking through the city, of course, visiting museums and spending time in the amazing cemeteries. Specifically Per la Chez. It’s true that I’m a proud taphophile but what’s not to love about old cemeteries? My favorites are in Europe but in the US my #1 favorite is in Natchez, Mississippi, a town located on the river itself. While Mississippi has a long history of major issues we can never overlook, the modern day Natchez has become a bustling artist’s haven.
As an architect lover, I find peace and solace walking through cemeteries. Perhaps it’s because everyone living there is finally at rest. I was obsessed with Natalie Wood as a young teen and after she died in 1981 I spent many weekends at the Westwood Village Memorial Park Cemetery, bowed over her grave.
Rent a Bicycle
This can often be an affordable and fun option. I did it in Montreal and had a wonderful time biking to the top of Mount Royal. There are wonderful bike lanes in the city and I was able to explore areas I wouldn’t have had time to explore on foot. It was such a memorable experience and I highly recommend trying to find bike rentals in bike friendly cities.
Free Museum Days and Free Events
You can find free museum days in almost every city and while they may be crowded during the summer months, they’re still worth it, in my opinion.
My favorite museum (so far, I haven’t been to all of them yet) is Fundação de Serralves. Not only a museum but also a huge, gorgeous park, Serralves teases the senses and delights the mind. Inside the park you will discover sculptures by famous artists, beautifully landscaped fountains and a tree top bridge walk. The main museum hosts changing artists and when I was there last I saw Miro in the smaller pink museum. There are often free days during the summer, and the first Sunday of every month. Plus over 65 gets in for half price and children under 12 are free. Once a year they host a free three day event when they’re open for 40 straight hours with dancing, music, theatrical shows and exhibitions plus a myriad of booths for children’s activities.
The Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis, the oldest museum in Portugal, is free on Sundays until 2 PM but it’s also affordable at €8.
The Casa do Infante is free on Sundays but people complain that it’s quite small, though worth going because it’s historic. Other days it’s just €4 to enter.
3 Reasons to Visit Porto's Casa do Infante:
Stand in a History-Making Spot: This is the reputed birthplace of Prince Henry the Navigator! Born in 1394, he was the prince who sponsored the sea voyages that began the Age of Discovery, changing the world forever. You can stand right where this monumental chapter of history began.
See Roman Ruins: During excavations in the 1990s, workers discovered something incredible under the medieval foundation: the remains of a large Roman building, complete with a beautiful mosaic floor that you can still see today! It’s a stunning reminder of just how deep Porto's history goes.
Discover Porto's Seafaring Soul: The museum is housed in the city's former 14th-century customs house, which was the nerve center for all trade coming up the Douro River. Through models, maps, and artifacts, you'll get a real feel for the city's medieval origins and the maritime power that made it famous. It’s the perfect way to connect with the story of Porto beyond the port wine cellars.
—There are also free events (parties really) happening throughout Porto, and the rest of the world. This could be an entirely new article so I’ll just touch on my favorite here in Porto and one that most people (even the Portuguese) don’t know about. The Paper Costume Festival in Foz, celebrating Saint Bartholomew. Each parish makes their costumes out of paper and they symbolize what the area is best known for. For example, the Douro may have costumes sporting paper grapes. Many of the costumes are colorful and elaborate. People line the streets to watch the parade which brings music and dancing. At the end, everyone wearing the costumes jumps into the ocean where the paper “melts off”, supposedly symbolizing the way Saint Bartholomew died; being cast into the ocean. In some artwork he is portrayed as “flayed”1 which is represented by the “melting off” of the paper costumes in the ocean. I’m not sure how many people know where the symbolism comes from, I asked many Portuguese people and no one could give me a definitive answer. But I kept asking more questions and did some research. So while I can’t say this is 100% why they carry on this yearly tradition, it’s the best I could come up with.
Window Shopping, Flea Markets, Artist Markets
If you’re unlike me, and can window shop without purchasing, there’s always this option. Especially walking along the pedestrian only street of Santa Catarina or walking around Aliados, where the fancy name-brand stores live.
During the weekends flea markets and artisan markets abound. There are even pop-ups.
I have yet to locate a complete list of every flea market here but if you know of one, please let me know in the comments. I live between several parks and one day a month there’s a pop-up two blocks to the right and on another weekend a month there’s a pop-up a few blocks to the left. This happens all over Porto. I know there’s a schedule and a list somewhere but I’ve yet to find it. So usually I delightedly come across flea markets and artisan markets by accident when I’m on my way elsewhere.
Hiking
I use the AllTrails app but there are other hiking apps as well as a meetup group for hiking around this beautiful city. Of course, hiking is free as long as you have the gear. If you’re a hiker, you can find hiking trails close to almost every major city throughout the world. And in doing so you’ll be closer to nature, breathe in the fresh air, come across a stunning waterfall and savor the moment of birdsong.
The only thing I’ve found specifically with using the AllTrails app is that when a trail is marked as moderate, for me, it’s much too hard. While I am nowhere near being an expert hiker, I am definitely not a novice. However, I find the trails marked “easy” on this app to be best for me. I learned the hard way but perhaps you’re an intermediate hiker and in that case, go for it!
Or you can drive, take a train or bus to the national park in Portugal, Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês. Or visit one of the many natural parks Portugal has to offer. You will hiking trails galore throughout.
In other countries you will find the same as well as long distance trails and through-hikes. While technically, through hikes and long distance trails aren’t completely free, they will cost less than staying in a hotel or airbnb. You have to pay for your food and accommodations though in some cases you can backpack and sleep in a tent.
In Porto you can start the Camino de Santiago or in the Algarve you can walk the Rota Vicentina (Fisherman’s Trail) along the coastline or travel inland on the Via Algarviana.
In Italy you will find Via Appia (The Appian Way) from Rome to Brindisi. And even farther south there are three routes. Cammino Materano (The Matera Way), Cammino di San Nilo (The Way of Saint Nilus) and Sentiero Italia (the Grand Italian Trail).
I found out about the Italian through hikes when I met a wonderful German woman while I was on a train ride from San Francisco to Chicago. Sabine and I became fast friends and I even visited her in Dresden. She had gone solo on a hike from Rome to Naples after reading about it in a book.
Other through hikes abound. One of the most famous in Europe is the West Highland Way in Scotland.
Conclusion
If you’re in Porto I encourage you to cross the Dom Luís I bridge at sunset, get delightfully lost in the winding streets of Foz do Douro, visit the sweet fishing village of Afurada or share a coffee with a new friend you’ve met on a free walking tour.
If you’re elsewhere in the world, these magical free moments translate. From open museum days to freebie tours to park jaunts or just walking the streets (not like that—not that there’s anything wrong with that…)
All of these special moments will define your adventure. They may not cost a penny (or a centimos), but hopefully they will cause your heart to overflow and create those kinds of memories that tickle the back of your skull until... hopefully the rest of your days.
My own adventuring has shown me that my funnest moments, times that brought tears of laughter, lunches with new buddies or peaceful solo moments in nature and beauty are the memories I remember and cherish. There are fewer memories fighting for space in my brain that consist of spending exorbitant amounts of money to go on an overpriced “excursion.” —the helicopter ride and dog sledding in Alaska being except from that judgmental judgment.
Porto, like many other cities/town/countries, is an overflowing treasure trove waiting to be witnessed, felt and experienced. There’s no golden ticket needed—just a good pair of walking shoes (or barefoot ones) and a curious, rambunctious spirit.
I truly hope this article inspires you to get out there, explore without breaking the bank, and start your own unforgettable adventure!
**PS—this article was not written using AI (with the exception of the Portugal national park list below), the em-dashes are MINE because I’ve always loved using them and stopped for a long time due to AI owning em-dashes now (unfair). I do use an AI tool (pro writing aid) for proofreading but the messy word-flow is all mine babies! And the photos of course, not AI or glamoured up; not that there’s anything wrong with that ;)
**PPS—if you have any other free idea adds, please put them in the comments!!
Resources
Free Tours: Sandeman Free Tours
Free Tours: Free Tour Community
Free Tours: Guru Walk
Paid Tours: Meetup.com
City Greeters, local volunteers. (search in google the words “city greeters” + the name of the city.
Free Tours by Foot: downloadable routes for you to walk on your own.
Architectours in Porto (paid) by Manuel António Morais
Casa do Infante Museum: free on Sundays
Other Museums in Porto (not necessarily free)
Casa da Música tour for €12: a striking 12-floor concert hall and restaurant in Porto, designed by renowned architect Rem Koolhaas
Events and Festivals in Porto Year Round
Porto Puppet Museum. I accidentally wandered into this gem and was happy to pay a nominal fee to support puppeteers as I used to be quite into puppets a lifetime ago.
Hiking in Porto: AllTrails or Get Your Guide List or try Gaia.
Major Natural Parks in Portugal (Often mistaken for National Parks) Copied from Gemini AI 2.5:
Litoral Norte Natural Park: A coastal park in the northwest with panoramic views over the Atlantic.
Alvão Natural Park: Known for its dramatic geology, particularly the spectacular Fisgas de Ermelo waterfalls where rivers cut through cliffs.
Montesinho Natural Park: One of Portugal's largest parks, located in the northeast, it's known for preserving a traditional rural way of life in its villages.
Douro Internacional Natural Park: Situated along the border with Spain, this park features deep river canyons carved by the Douro River, which are important nesting sites for birds of prey.
Serra da Estrela Natural Park: This is the largest protected area in Portugal, containing the highest mountain range in mainland Portugal. It offers alpine vistas and opportunities for snow sports in winter.
Tejo Internacional Natural Park: Another cross-border park with Spain, protecting the landscape along the Tagus River, which is a haven for birdlife.
Serras de Aire e Candeeiros Natural Park: A limestone massif known more for what's underground—it has a rich network of caves and grottoes.
Serra de São Mamede Natural Park: Located in the Alentejo region, this park is a surprisingly green and elevated area with a unique microclimate compared to the surrounding plains.
Sintra-Cascais Natural Park: A popular park near Lisbon that combines lush, forested hills (home to Sintra's famous palaces) with a dramatic coastline that includes Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe.
Arrábida Natural Park: Located on the Setúbal Peninsula, this park is famous for its Mediterranean-like landscape, where green mountains meet pristine, white-sand beaches.
Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Natural Park: A long strip of protected coastline in the Alentejo and Algarve regions, considered one of the most beautiful and well-preserved coastal areas in Europe.
Guadiana Valley Natural Park: Protects the area around the Guadiana River in the southeast, known for its rolling plains and riverine habitats.
Ria Formosa Natural Park: A coastal lagoon system in the Algarve, this is a vital wetland for migratory birds and is composed of a series of barrier islands and salt marshes.
Additionally, the autonomous regions of the Azores and Madeira have their own networks of protected areas, including natural parks like the Madeira Natural Park.
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Cost of living: Article here
Healthcare (or lack thereof) here.
Safety—article here.
Polarization—too much hate and anger
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Part 2—Conquer your fears about moving abroad!
Part 3—12 Minimizing Mistakes Part 1
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Part 5—A Personal Case study (re: Minimizing)
Part 6—Your Move Abroad: The Ultimate Checklist
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—Expat on a Budget (AKA) Living Abroad on a Budget and My Unknown Adventure by Kimberly Anne
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartholomew_the_Apostle
This is so helpful! Thanks for sharing.
The pix are such a great walk down memory lane! And we are so going to the fishing village once I can arrange a visit. 😃